Rats are hard to spot due to their careful nature. They don’t like to run around in broad daylight, so you typically won’t see them running around your block unless the infestation has become severe.
But if you pay attention, you can find telltale signs of rats living on your property or in your neighborhood. When the NYC Health Department sends inspectors to monitor rat activity, here are the common signs that they look out for:
The approach to successful outdoor rat control is different than tackling an indoor rodent problem. For one, outdoor areas are boundless; even if you manage to remove the rats around your building, more will come from neighboring blocks to take over the territory.
Effective rat control isn’t achieved by a single resident or landlord—it’s a team effort that requires the cooperation of everyone in your building and on your block to drive rats away for good.
Here are some simple prevention tips for tenants and landlords to protect your neighborhood from New York City rats:
Rat burrows are small holes in the ground where rats live and reproduce. Each burrow typically has one main entrance that’s around 2–4 inches wide, as well as side entrances and escape holes.
In the context of New York City neighborhoods, access to food and water most commonly comes in the form of garbage left on sidewalks and alleyways, although gardens, yards, and outdoor dining setups are also attractive spots for rats to set up their burrows.
If you find a rat burrow, close it by filling it with soil and tamping down with a shovel.
Pest control professionals may fill active burrows with things to kill the rats inside, such as natural rodenticides or dry ice, before closing them.
Dry ice in particular is very effective for outdoor rat control. When placed into rat burrows, dry ice sublimates into carbon dioxide which fills the burrow and suffocates any rats inside. New York City officials started using this method in 2018 to exterminate large numbers of rats infesting public parks.
Another product used by MMPC and other pest control professionals for eliminating rats and their burrows is BurrowRX. This machine pumps carbon monoxide through their tunnels and nesting areas, which humanely kills any rats inside within minutes.
The carbon monoxide smoke is colored so that the licensed applicator can see if the gas leaks through any other holes that might be connected to the burrow. If so, those holes are also be blocked and closed.
Exclusion, one of the cornerstones of an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach, involves installing physical barriers to shut the rats out.
To prevent rats from being able to get inside buildings, city officials recommend sealing all holes and cracks in foundations, walls, floors, underneath doors, and around windows. Some examples of materials used for sealing include:
Patches of empty dirt in gardens, planters, and tree beds should be fitted with a top layer of steel mesh or a screen to stop rats from burrowing beneath the soil.
Using a caulking gun, seal cracks and small holes with caulk or cement. Any gap that’s larger than half an inch is big enough for a rat to crawl through. For larger gaps and holes, fill them with cement or expansion foam before covering with steel mesh and seal with cement.
Doors with gaps should be fitted with metal door sweeps to prevent rats from squeezing through underneath. If you see gnaw marks, install sheet metal plates on the bottom of the door.
Lastly, seal any pipes leading into walls with pipe collars and cover any drains or vents with metal screens.
This method uses rodenticide bait (in the form of blocks or pastes) placed inside of tamper-proof boxes. The boxes, called bait stations, are designed to allow rodents to get in and eat the poisoned bait, while keeping it safely out of reach from pets and children.
Pest Control Near MeAt MMPC, our exterior rat baiting program uses anticoagulant bait blocks that are formulated to effectively attract and exterminate rats and other rodents.
Rather than killing the target immediately, rodenticides used for exterior rat baiting are designed to be slow-acting—rats usually die after 4 to 6 days of taking the poisoned bait. There are two reasons for this:
Rats are cautious and clever animals, and will avoid taking bait if they see other rats dying from it. Slow-acting rodenticides make it harder for them to associate bait stations with danger.
Rats take food back to their nests to feed their young. Since they’re not immediately lethal, the poisoned bait can be shared with other rats to effectively whittle down large outdoor rat populations.
In NYC, you are allowed to place rodent bait on your property if you live in your own home without tenants. However, commercial and multi-unit property owners must hire a licensed pest control company to do it.
In the air, carpet, counter or cupboard, every home shares its resources with these tiny, often unseen invaders. Pesticides are available for most common household insect pests, but these potent chemical compounds may be more harmful to you and the environment than the pests.
You’ll notice that one nontoxic remedy is mentioned in most of the pest problems listed below: diatomaceous earth (DE). DE is not that well known, yet we think DE should be the first line of defence for insect problems in the home since it is non-toxic, inexpensive, safe for use around kids and pets, and broad spectrum. To learn more, read our article: Diatomaceous Earth: Non-Toxic Insect Pest Control for Your Home and Garden
You’ll notice that one nontoxic remedy is mentioned in most of the pest problems listed below: diatomaceous earth (DE). DE is not that well known, yet we think DE should be the first line of defence for insect problems in the home since it is non-toxic, inexpensive, safe for use around kids and pets, and broad spectrum. To learn more, read our article: Diatomaceous Earth: Non-Toxic Insect Pest Control for Your Home and Garden
The first line of defense is to remove the attractants: keep counters free of crumbs and sticky spots. Cover the sugar and put the honey jar in a plastic baggie. Cut off water sources such as drips or dishes left soaking overnight.
Set out cucumber peels or slices in the kitchen or at the ants’ point of entry. Many ants have a natural aversion to cucumber. Bitter cucumbers work best.
Leave a few tea bags of mint tea near areas where the ants seem most active. Dry, crushed mint leaves or cloves also work as ant deterrents.
Trace the ant column back to their point of entry. Set any of the following items at the entry area in a small line, which ants will not cross: cayenne pepper, citrus oil (can be soaked into a piece of string), lemon juice, or cinnamon or coffee grounds.
Mix one liter of water, one teaspoon of Borax, and one cup of sugar. Soak cotton balls in the solution and place them in a small yogurt container with holes punched in the lids to allow ants access. Place container in a location where ants are present. Ants will carry the bait back to their colonies where it will eventually kill the colony. Important: use indoors only; this must be kept away from pets and children.
Leave a small, low wattage night light on for a few nights in the area of most ant activity. The change in light can disrupt and discourage ant foraging patterns.
Microscopic dust mites are everywhere in the home: in our beds, clothing, furniture, bookshelves, and stuffed animals. For people with allergies or asthma, dust mites are a serious problem.
Vacuum mattresses and pillows. Wash bedding regularly at 130 F (55 C) or higher. Detergents and commercial laundry products have no effect on mites unless the water temperature is high. Wash stuffed animals in hot water and place in dryer on hot for at least 15 minutes. Freezing will also kill dust mites but won’t remove allergens.
For people with allergies to dust mites, dust mite bedding, pillowcases, and duvet and mattress covers are available with zippered, allergen-impermeable encasings designed to block dust mites. Check these periodically to ensure no rips are present. Avoid fabric-covered headboards.